But let’s take a few steps back, what are “surfactants” and how do they clean the skin?
The word "surfactant" is shortened from the term "surface active agent". Imagine a surfactant molecule like a bi-polar tadpole, with a head and a tail. The head loves water ("hydrophilic") and the tail hates water ("hydrophobic"). When a surfactant touches a surface, the heads naturally look to attach themselves to water molecules, while the tails hide away to protect themselves from them, and end up forming something called a "micelle" that looks like the picture on the right below:
When you wash with surfactants, the tails will attach themselves to the non-water components of the soiled particles and remove them from your skin surface to create the cleansing effect. Many people have the misconception that you must wash off the soap suds residue to be clean; while this is technically true, you're actually washing off the soiled particles encased in the soap micelles, the soap isn't what's keeping your dirty.
Now back to our mythbusting. The top-most layer of your skin (called "stratum corneum") is protected by a lipid barrier made of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. This barrier prevents transepidermal water loss (aka "TEWL") and protects you from external pathogens and chemicals that can damage your skin health. Sensitive or irritated skin is the result of a poorly functioning lipid barrier. This is why overcleansing with surfactants will further strip the skin of this natural barrier of oils and exacerbate existing skin concerns.
A case in point:
Over the weekend, a customer mentioned her elderly mother suffers from an irritated skin patch on her arm and is looking for gentle cleansing solution for the area in her skin. So I asked her if she felt the area actually needed daily deep cleaning (I use the term “deep clean” to differentiate the practice from simply washing the area with water and maybe a gentle scrub for mild exfoliation purposes). The question took her by surprise and she had to pause for a moment to think before responding "no". And I think that’s the moral of the story: ask ourselves the question when we are dealing with sensitive skin: "Do we actually need to deep clean it every day?"
]]>In last month's blog post, we looked at the art of the possible - with a few tips, how someone with sensitive skin can also enjoy the skin rejuvenating benefits of a clay mask.
While choosing the right clay mask for your skin is important, knowing the right time and method to wash it off is just as critical to ensure you're maximizing the benefits instead of harming your skin in the process. That's why we're here with this follow-up post :)
Here's what I used to do (and I have sensitive skin, btw): I'd let the cool, creamy clay mask rest on my skin, enjoy the calming scent of the essential oils, maybe play some relaxing tunes in the background, rest my eyes...then I'd start to feel the mask harden, and my skin tighten - until the surface would start to form a crust that'd crack and flake off. Then I'd wash off the mask with a facial sponge using gentle circular motions under lukewarm water.
I'll admit, it was a fairly satisfying feeling to undergo this sensual transformation, and I used to think that skin tightening feeling was proof that the clay was actively drawing toxins out of my skin, my pores were shrinking and that my face muscles were getting a good tone. Boy, was I wrong.
Let me explain. There are three phases to using a clay mask:
Clay masks are a godsend for oily, acne-prone skin because of the clay's ability to absorb excess oils and deeply cleanse pores of dirt and grease. Clay also acts as a gentle exfoliant sloughing away dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and replenishes it with nutrient-rich minerals at the same time.
If you have dry or sensitive skin like me, you are probably thinking clay masks aren't for you. And truth be told, when I tried my first clay masks, I often ended up with redness and sometimes even a stinging sensation. This was when I knew, the clay mask wasn't right for my skin. Remember, skincare is there to make you feel good about your skin, never let anyone tell you it's working because it's hurting! But I knew there must be a way others like me can take advantage of the deeply nourishing and purifying properties of clay masks. So after much formulation research and trials, I've boiled down a couple of tips to share with you (YES! We can definitely enjoy the clay mask experience as well!) Here are a few key things to watch out for when shopping for a clay mask for sensitive skin:
So...are you ready to give it a try? If you're still unsure about which clay mask to get...well, look no further, we offer one right here at November Blossom, tested and tried and fits all the criteria above ;)
Give the clay masks a try, you'll be surprised by the immediate visible results!
]]>If you haven’t already, feel free to also check out the first and second part of the series, where we introduced the other eight Dirty Dozen ingredients.
Petrolatum, mineral oil, petroleum jelly...this is one of the most popular ingredients in commercial skincare because of its long shelf life, odorless property, ability to seal in moisture completely, and well...low-cost of production. That's because it's a byproduct from the process of refining crude oil - to be specific, if you scrape off the buildup that is found on oil rigs and take it away to be distilled, the resulting product is petrolatum.
Health Concerns: Petrolatum that is not properly refined may be contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons ("PAHs") that causes skin irritation, allergies, and cancer. The EU actually classifies petrolatum as a carcinogen unless its full refining history is known and it's proven to be non-carcinogenic. Sadly, in Canada, we don't have the same restrictions. If you're interested in learning more, check out another blog article targeting the use of petrolatum in lip care products here.
Siloxane is a milder component of silicone that can be combined with other chemicals to help give a cosmetic product, a lighter, smoother, easier glide. It's found in most make-up products and also in moisturizers under different chemical names ending in "methicone" or "siloxane", such as Dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane), Amodimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Cylcopentasiloxane and Cyclohexasiloxane.
Health Concerns: Even though the cosmetics industry has argued this is safe in moderate doses, the EU has classified cyclotetrasiloxane and cylcopentasiloxane as endocrine disruptors, meaning they have the ability to disrupt our hormone functions that can impair human fertility. They may also harm our nervous, reproductive and immune systems. From an environmental health perspective, siloxanes doesn't dissolve or break up over time. Instead, it has the ability to intoxicate our waste water, entering and accumulating in the bodies of aquatic species, in some cases, killing them off together with plant life that feeds off this water source.
Who is a fan of hotel shampoos and body washes? I'll be honest here, I was a total hoarder of the cutely packaged mini kits until...I became a natural skincare formulator. In looking through my "stash" collected over the years, I started noticing this ingredient in a number of these products - and often it comes up as the first primary ingredient! I don't blame them, SLES is designed to give a product more foam, more lather, more emulsifying power, and all that makes it a better clean. Oh, did I forget to mention, it's also an extremely cheap ingredient.
Health Concerns: The manufacturing process for SLES makes it prone to contamination by a known carcinogen ethylene oxide and a possible carcinogen 1,4-dioxane. Worthy of note, SLES is often confused with SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), an equally popular ingredient in cleansing products. Though SLS doesn't have the same potential for contamination as SLES, there is evidence that long term exposure can lead to skin irritation.
With the amount of hand sanitizers we use and handwashing we do these days, this is one ingredient to watch out for. Triclosan primarily functions as an antibacterial agent added to well, just about everything that can be labelled antibacterial - soap, lotions, toothpaste, deodorant, even children's toys! To identify triclosan, look for triclosan (TSC) or triclocarbon (TCC) on the product label.
Health Concerns: Triclosan can pass through skin and accumulate in human bodies. It is restricted for use in Canada due to its ability to cause skin and eye irritations and environmental damage, and is suspected to disrupt our hormonal functions as well as contribute to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria. Note that restricted for use in Canada doesn't mean it's a banned ingredient, it may still be used in concentrations below an established threshold. However, Health Canada does require explicit labelling to highlight these restricted ingredients, so make sure to read those product labels! Ultimately, practicing effective handwashing with regular soap and water is proven to provide better hand hygiene than the use of antibacterial soaps.
Thank you for sticking with me through this three-part series! Congratulations for empowering yourself with the knowledge to help protect you and your family from the skincare dirty dozen!
]]>Let's continue with ingredient #5.
Duh. I know, I know - no one would get near formaldehyde with a ten-foot pole, so obviously, the challenge with this one is how to spot it on skincare product labels, because let's face it, it's gonna be buried - deep. The tip here, look far, far down the ingredients list, near the very end, because preservatives are typically used in very small quantities and the ingredients list is presented in descending order of ingredient volume. They are commonly found in salon products (nail polish, lash glue), shampoos, and unfortunately, also baby care products. Look for any of these ingredients:
Health Concerns: Though formaldehyde is a restricted ingredient in Canada (allowed at max. 0.2%), there are no restrictions on use of FRPs. At low doses, some of these can trigger eye and skin irritations and allergies. The primary concern is that formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen, may be off-gassed from these products, intoxicating the air we inhale.
Very similar to FRPs, parabens are widely used as preservatives in cosmetics. They are fairly easy to spot on the ingredients list (with one exception, we'll get to it in ingredient #7) - look for methylparaben (E number E218), ethylparaben (E214), propylparaben (E216), butylparaben and heptylparaben (E209), and less commonly, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, and benzylparaben.
Health Concerns: Parabens can be easily absorbed into our skin and are proven to interfere with hormonal and reproductive functions as they are highly estrogenic. A recent study has also found that some parabens can interact with cell receptors to trigger growth of breast cancer cells.
This is the one word on the ingredients list that can hide everything including the kitchen sink. Well, not literally, but did you know there are approximately 3000 chemicals that can be used as a fragrance? Because unique scents are treated as trade secrets, manufacturers are not mandated to disclose the precise ingredients that went in to generate the fragrance. At November Blossom, we believe in 100% Ingredients Transparency, so we openly share the ingredients that contribute to the fragrance of our products (also because they do much more for skincare than just their scents). Our tip here? Avoid products that have Parfum on their ingredients list (usually at the very end) - you and your family deserve the transparency and I guarantee you there will always be fragrance-free alternatives on the market.
Health Concerns: You just don't know what you don't know. But what we do know is synthetic fragrances have the ability to trigger migraines, allergies, and asthmatic symptoms.
If you use name brand skincare products, chances are, they contain some kind of PEG compounds. So what are PEGs? Polyethylene is a form of plastic, when combined with Glycol, turns into a thick, viscous liquid that is commonly used as bases for creams, for 3 reasons: 1) it thickens the textures, 2) acts as a emulsifier, and 3) enhances product penetration into the skin. PEGs are followed by a dash and a number (e.g. PEG-6, PEG-100) which stands for the molecular weight of the compound.
Health Concerns: The concern with PEG is primarily its ability to enhance product penetration. Unless you can be 100% confident that in the manufacturing process of the PEG or the skincare product itself, there is no contamination by impurities or worst yet, carcinogens (e.g., ethylene oxide, 1,4-dioxane), why subject you and your family to the risk of these toxic substances seeping into your skin?
Finally, let's bust the myth that natural = clean. Here are a couple of popular brand name products on the market that position themselves as natural:
Product Name | Dirty Dozen Ingredient |
Huggies Natural Plus Baby Wipes | Butoxy PEG-4 PG-Amodimethicone |
Live Clean Daily Moisturizing Shea and Coconut Body Lotion | Parfum (Fragrance) |
Aveeno Baby Daily Lotion | Petrolatum |
Surprised? The term “greenwashing” is used to describe the use of catchphrases and claims in order to create a false impression that a product is natural or eco-friendly for marketing purposes. There’s actually no legal definition of the term “natural” so it really is up to the consumers to decipher for themselves what is actually safe and true, clean natural products.
And this is the premise of our blog, to empower and remind consumers such as yourselves to exercise due diligence and carefully scrutinize ingredient labels.
]]>
We know those skincare product labels are difficult to read, or even pronounce, and let's face it, who's really going to remember a long list of chemical names to compare against when shopping for skincare? Here, let us tackle a couple with you at a time, and break it down for you in layman's terms to help them stick.
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) are antioxidants found in oil-based products. You may find them in food products (especially those that undergo high temperature cooking) such as potato chips, preserved meat, cereal, baked goods, many instant foods and even wax-based food packaging. In cosmetics, they are most commonly found in lip stick, moisturizers and makeup.
Health Concerns: Studies have shown in high doses, or over long term use, it leads to adverse reproductive effects, may cause liver, thyroid and kidney problems, and is classified as a possible carcinogen.
Coal tar dyes are typically used as artificial colorants in cosmetic products such as hair dyes, lip stick, and even unassuming products such as shampoos and lotions.
Health Concerns: Coal tar dyes are a known human carcinogen and they are subject to contamination with aluminium compounds or heavy metals, which are toxic to the brain and can lead to conditions such as ADHD in children.
Diethanolamine (DEA) contributes to the creamy or sudsy in your moisturizers, soaps, and shampoos. Find it on its own on the cosmetic product label, or as part of another chemical compound such as Cocamide DEA or Cocamide Diethanolamine.
Health Concerns: On its own, it is known to cause mild to moderate eye irritation and in high doses, or over long term use, may be carcinogenic. Combined with nitrates, which are often found in the same products containing DEAs as preservatives, they react to form nitrosodiethanolamine (NDEA), an extremely carcinogenic compound which can easily be absorbed through the skin.
Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) is what makes plastic soft and flexible and is often used in engineering PVC. Why are they on the list? Because they are also found in nail polish products to keep them from becoming brittle. Phthalates are also commonly used to add fragrance in cosmetic products (we'll get to that in a later post).
Health Concerns: DBP can be absorbed through the skin and is known to cause reproductive harm in males and females such as reduced sperm counts and birth defects and can enhance the ability for other chemicals to cause genetic mutations. Exposure to phthalates may also cause liver and kidney failure in small children who suck or chew on these products over extended periods of time.
Congratulations! You got through the first four of the dirty dozen - that's a third of the nasty chemicals you're ridding from in your family's skincare regimen! Keep up with our monthly blog and in no time, you'll be the clean skincare expert in your mommy group!
]]>Before I get into busting this myth though, allow me to introduce to you the concept of comedogenicity - "co-med-do-gen-ni-ci-ty" (wow, 7 syllables!). Simply put, comedogenicity is the likelihood something can clog your pores. There's actually a universal comedogenicity scale, from 0 to 5. A rating of zero means an ingredient is completely non-comedogenic, and it will not clog your pores. Conversely, a rating of five means an ingredient is severely comedogenic, and most likely will clog your pores. Here are a couple of oils with low comedogenic ratings:
Comedogenic Rating | |
Safflower Seed Oil | 0 |
Hemp Seed Oil | 0 |
Grape Seed Oil | 1 |
Shea Butter | 0-2 |
Squalane | 0-1 |
Before you go around witch-hunting for comedogenic ingredients in your skincare products, let me assure you that in sufficient dilution, even the most comedogenic ingredient may not clog pores. At November Blossom, our products are formulated to suit even the most delicate newborn skin, and the ingredients are carefully chosen and balanced so the final formulation minimizes the risk of clogging your pores.
Now with this concept of comedogenicity in mind, let's go back to the concern around applying oils on acne-prone skin. We know that acne is caused by pores being clogged by oil, dead skin, or bacteria. And what you now know (if you didn't before), is that not all oils clog pores. This still begs the open question, if clearly your skin is producing too much oil, why would you want to apply more oil onto it?
As counter-intuitive as this sounds, it's because your skin is too dry. Follow me through this train of thought: My skin is oily -> I'm going to cleanse it more frequently, and afterwards, I'm not using a moisturizer to avoid more oils on my skin -> the natural oil (sebum) is stripped from my skin's surface from the cleansing, but it's not being replenished -> my skin produces excess sebum to compensate for the lack of oil -> I've trained my skin to produce excess oil on a regular basis, resulting in "oily skin".
Hopefully by now, we've firmly busted the myth that oils will cause breakouts. Yes some will, but not all. And if you have oily skin, try some of the the lighter, non-comedogenic oils to start re-training your skin's natural sebum balance.
]]>Let's dive a bit into the terminology and origin to start. Petrolatum is synonymous with petroleum jelly, and it is derived from crude oil that was originally the by-product of the petroleum manufacturing process - actually, it was oil that was found building up inside oil rigs, to be precise. This crude oil is refined through multiple distillation processes, before it ends up as the content of those blue-labelled tubs. Because of the color of the jelly, it is also referred to as white petrolatum.
If you've ever applied petrolatum, you'll know it does wonders for locking in moisture - because its paraffin-like waxy material is a perfect occlusive - moisture cannot penetrate through - but by the same token, it also cannot enter in to provide hydration. And for our lips, where there are no oil glands to retain moisture naturally, a combination of humectants, emollients and occlusives is needed to provide proper hydration and protection. Check out the full ingredients list for our lip balms to identify how this combination of properties come into play in our formulations.
Beyond its limitation from the lack of moisturizing properties, the primary reason why petrolatum should be avoided in lip care goes back to its chemical composition and refinement process. Mineral oils are composed of complex hydrocarbons that comprise of mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) and mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH). Depending on the level of refinement the mineral oil undergoes as it is transformed into petroleum jelly, the MOSH or MOAH that remain in the end product may cause liver toxicity or be carcinogenic. Cosmetic-grade mineral oil is supposed to undergo sufficient refinement to be free from MOAH, and contain only low risk MOSH; however, there have been doubts raised as to whether the refinement requirements are fully and consistently met, as unlike the EU, there is no mandatory disclosure of the full refining history of these products in Canada. From this lack of transparency, it really leaves the judgement to ourselves as end consumers based on our individual risk tolerance. In my personal case, knowing there is a wide range of proven 100% safe, effective and natural lip care options available, the decision to abandon petrolatum was a rather simple one.
Finally, the reason I focus this article on lip products as opposed to the use of petrolatum in other body parts is because MOSH and MOAH present danger only when ingested, as mineral oils cannot be absorbed by the skin.
]]>As we’ve previously discussed, essential oils are not without their risks. It’s important to recognize that the most potent anti-microbial essential oils (e.g., cinnamon bark, oregano, thyme thymol, clove, lemongrass) are also most damaging to our skin cells (Tisserand & Young 2014) and may cause overstimulation or irritation when inhaled. To children with developing immunity and respiratory systems, these oils should be properly diluted (or aired out in terms of diffusion) in order to avoid negative impacts to their development.
So what are parents to do instead? Here are a couple of safer, gentler methods:
*Below are a few sources amongst many to browse these research papers:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/
https://www.degruyter.com/
Reference
https://tisserandinstitute.org/antimicrobial-essential-oils-children/
]]>Let's tell the story from the view of a budding skincare entrepreneur, Sally. Sally's stoked, she has the perfect formulation in her hands and can't wait to launch it onto the market and put it into the hands of her customers, but there are a few questions and procedures she must address first.
1. Labelling
What's the fuss? Isn't it just about slapping a sticker with the product name and her business logo and calling it a day? Certainly, Sally may get away with doing this, but all it takes is for one complaint to Health Canada for all of her products to be removed off the shelf. There is a whole regulatory statute dedicated to labelling, known as the Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act, and it's specifically there to ensure transparency on key product information for the consumer to rely upon when they make their purchase, such as the manufacturer's name and address, net quantity and full ingredients list.
2. Cosmetic, Drug, or Natural Health Product?
Along with labelling comes the question of product classification. Sally needs to determine this based on:
(a) The formula in her hand, what is it composed of and in what concentration is each ingredient? It's interesting to note while some ingredients may automatically classify a product as a drug, others may be deemed to be a cosmetic ingredient until the concentration reaches a certain threshold.
(b) What claims or representations does she intend to make about her product? This could be a word, a picture, or even an implication that creates a perception about the use and function of the product. If it represents a therapeutic function, then it will be considered a drug.
Because of the rise in popularity and use of natural products containing health effects, a new classification, known as "Natural Health Products" or "NHPs", was created in 2008. If Sally's product is deemed to be an NHP, then she must undergo a rigorous and costly process to obtain a product and site license from Health Canada before she's able to put it up for sale.
3. Notification to Health Canada
Sally determines that her product will be classified as a cosmetic, and has taken the care to properly create and affix her product label. Now, can she sell? Yes, she can! But there's a catch...
Within 10 days after Sally puts her product up for sale, she must notify Health Canada by submitting a Cosmetic Notification Form that outlines the details of her product, including its function, ingredients, form, and manufacturer information. She doesn't need to wait for an approval back from Health Canada, as the submission is simply a notification and doesn't constitute an approval to sell.
Key Takeaway for Consumers
As you may have learned from Sally's experience above, much of the Canadian regulatory requirements are performed on a voluntary basis by the manufacturer or seller. It puts the onus on the cosmetic manufacturer or seller to have the knowledge and awareness to follow the appropriate protocols. With the rise of e-commerce and social media, it is now more easy than ever to push a new cosmetic product out onto the market, and it simply isn't realistic to expect Health Canada to be a watchdog for catching every non-compliant product. The penalty to non-compliance (i.e., the product must be pulled from the market) also isn't of a severe enough nature to deter manufacturers or sellers from recklessly disregarding the protocols. It really is in many ways up to the good faith of the manufacturer or seller to abide by the rules.
As the result, the key takeaway for consumers is to not assume just because a product is sold on the market, that it's passed rigorous safety checks administered by the government. It is critical that buyers beware, and as I always say, for the health and safety of you and your loved ones...educate yourself and scrutinize, scrutinize and scrutinize!
]]>Ever heard of "margarita burn"? When squeezing fresh lime juice into your cold margarita drink under the summer sun, you may actually expose your skin to second-degree burns. Sounds too serious to be true? Well, let's dive into the science behind it.
Furanocoumarin (FC) is a biological chemical compound produced by a number of citrus fruits as a self-defense mechanism against herbivore insects. They become phototoxic once exposed to UVA rays in sunlight. As it becomes absorbed into the skin via contact, it can cause redness, blisters, and burns within 24 hours of exposure. A dilution as low as 0.03% (Tisserand & Young, 2013) is sufficient to result in this skin condition, officially known as "phytophotodermatitis".
Below is a quick reference table for common essential oils and their relation to phototoxicity (Tisserand, pH. 87, 2013):
Phototoxic | Not Phototoxic |
Bergamot | Bergaptene-Free Bergamot |
Cold-Pressed Lime | Steam-Distilled Lime |
Cold-Pressed Lemon | Steam-Distilled Lemon |
Mandarin Leaf | Mandarin |
Bitter Orange | Sweet Orange |
Grapefruit |
Tangerine |
As you can see, some of the differences between phototoxic and non-phototoxic essential oils are fairly subtle, such as understanding the extraction methods of each essential oil, and it is challenging to identify by pure scent whether a citrus flavored product might contain phototoxic essential oils. As such, it is important to exercise caution when selecting day time skincare products and when in doubt, always ask the manufacturer to provide additional information about the ingredients used.
First off, let's take a step back to look in more detail at how mineral sunscreen works. There are two types of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which may be found in mineral sunscreens, nano-sized and non-nano-sized. Nano-sized mineral particles are designed to battle the white cast that is left when these minerals are spread across the skin. They are small enough (under 100nm) that they only reflect UV light but not visible light, thus will appear transparent to the naked eye. However, due to their small size, they may have the ability to penetrate our skin and accumulate within our bodies and research has shown this may happen to people with poor skin conditions (Cross et al., 2007).
Non-nano-sized may be the safer option in this regard; however, mineral UV filters are prone to clumping together to form microscopic lumps that cannot be seen by the naked eye. The danger here is that the minerals won’t be applied evenly onto the skin, leaving gaps that will be exposed, resulting in sun damage. In order to ensure proper mixing of these minerals, use of professional equipment and addition of special dispersing agents are required in the formulation. Hence, it is not a product amateur or low-budget formulators should venture into.
Aside from mineral sunscreens, there are also those who label a natural skincare product as having SPF protection by adding carrier oils that are reputed to offer some level of SPF protection. Here are a few examples with their respective reputed SPF levels:
Well! I say “reputed” SPF levels because scientific research conducted to date has not been able to measure with certainty the in vivo SPF levels - which are based on the reaction of skin under exposure to UV light. Existing research has either been measuring the in vitro SPF levels (without application to human skin) or the tested carrier oils have been measured while mixed with other ingredients.
Here’s my personal rule of thumb - if the sunscreen isn’t offered by a big-name commercial brand that can be found at big-name supermarkets, I won’t go near it with a ten-foot pole. Moreover, look for a DIN (Drug Identification Number) or NPN (Natural Product Number) on the product label to ensure it has been assessed by Health Canada for its effectiveness and quality. These numbers are required for any cosmetic products with a medical claim, and yes, sun protection is a medical claim.
For babies under 6 months old, best altogether avoid the sun by staying indoors (especially between 11am - 3pm when the UV rays are the strongest) or wear proper sun protection attire such as wide-brimmed sun hats and loose-fitted clothing providing full-body coverage. Because their skin is so delicate, sunscreen is not recommended.
For more information, refer to the Health Canada website here.
A few more tidbits on after-sun care: there are all-natural options! Look for products with ingredients that contain therapeutic properties to help soothe skin irritation and promote skin rejuvenation. Some popular options include:
Why is that? To bust this myth, let's dive a bit into the formation of UV rays.
UV rays comprise of three subgroups: UVA, UVB and UVC. UVC is effectively blocked by the earth's ozone layer, so it never reaches our skin. UVA and UVB rays, however, can pass the ozone and reach the Earth. UVB primarily affects the upper layers of our skin and is the culprit of this sunny day myth. UVB levels increase on sunny days and is what's responsible for tanning our skin, causing sunburn due to overexposure, and even causing skin cell damage which may lead to skin cancer. UVA, on the other hand, has the ability to penetrate deeply into our skin and damage our collagen production, resulting in wrinkle formation. While sunny days may increase the level of UVB rays, UVA rays remain at the same level all year round. This is why for the beauty- and health-conscious, sunscreen is a daily skincare essential.
But let's face it, who enjoys putting that sticky white paste on their face? Are all sunscreen sticky and white? Let's take a look next at how sunscreen works.
Sunscreen works by adding UV filters into cosmetic products. These UV filters can be either chemical or physical. Chemical UV filters protect the skin by absorbing the UV rays and users are instructed to apply these sunscreens about 15 minutes in advance of sun exposure to allow time for the chemicals to penetrate into the skin. Studies have shown that these chemicals may accumulate in our soft body tissues (Schlumpf et al., 2010) and eventually will release the UV energy, creating free radicals that cause pre-mature skin aging and skin DNA damage (Hanson et al., 2006). Popular ingredients in chemical sunscreens include: oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, octinoxate. Physical UV filters work by sitting on top of the skin to deflect UV rays. The common mineral ingredient is zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. And you guessed it, they are the reason for sticky white pasty sunscreen texture.
Finally - I can't mention sunscreen and not talk about SPF. SPF stands for "Sun Protection Factor" and measures the skin's reaction to UV rays at different dosages. The only way to truly know how much SPF is in a sun product is through exposing the skin under different conditions in a lab test environment. SPF only measures the product's protection against UVB; if you want protection against UVA, you must look for the term "broad spectrum" on the product label.
I hope you’ve learned something useful that will help protect you and your little one’s skin not only this summer, but all year round!
]]>This post isn’t created to spread fear or panic, so let me start off by saying, if you got your hands on some alcohol-based sanitizers (or is it the other way around 😝) that are sold from reputable brands then you are definitely much better protected than those using non-alcohol-based sanitizers or the “DIY” versions as discussed in Myth No. 5.
So on what basis am I calling the protective powers of alcohol-based hand sanitizers a myth? Especially when even the World Health Organization has published recommended formula for them?
Let’s begin by diving into the biological structure of the virus and bacteria that we are aiming to defend against. The corona-virus, similar to the flu virus, is enveloped in an outer shell of protein. Bacteria are similarly enveloped in cell walls. The effect of alcohol is to destroy the outer shells or membranes protecting these virus or bacteria, in turn killing them*. That said, there are some things to watch out for to ensure the alcohol has a chance to properly do its job.
1. Concentration of alcohol (or ethanol) must be at 60 to 95%. Lower than 60%, the alcohol content isn’t strong enough to denature the virus or bacteria protein. Higher than 95%, there isn’t enough water content present to enable sufficient time for the alcohol to do its job before it evaporates.
2. Enough sanitizer must be used to coat all skin surface. This is an obvious one, and enough translates to 3 mL or about a palmful.
3. Ensure your hands aren’t dirty. Foreign matter on your hands (such as grease or dirt) will inhibit the sanitizer from killing viruses or bacteria present by making it difficult for the alcohol to reach the protein envelops.
4. Don’t be too quick to wipe your hands after. Hand sanitizers in a gel format often leave behind a “ sticky” feeling or residue and some people will be tempted to wipe it off before the gel dries up. This actually reduces the sanitizing power as there are polymers added to create the gel consistency for the purpose of allowing sufficient time for the alcohol to kill off the germs.
All in all, and I can’t repeat enough, hand washing is best. With plain, old soap and water for 20 seconds. In addition to the limitations noted above, the denatured microbes continue to remain on your hands after the use of alcohol-based sanitizers. Whereas soap and water will not only disrupt the envelops of the virus and bacteria, they will remove the microbes (as well as any dirt or grease) from your skin altogether.
*Note that alcohol-based sanitizers are not effective at killing viruses not enveloped in an outer shell (such as noro-virus).
References
https://www.compoundchem.com/2020/03/04/hand-sanitisers/?fbclid=IwAR1zuU8QB2nmMjYMvIPdaGZR2Rx3fHrhpZ-zo-wS7T2KOJUu7SvL5AaQ9zA
https://www.cdc.gov/handwashing/show-me-the-science-hand-sanitizer.html
https://cen.acs.org/business/consumer-products/hand-sanitizer-does-keep-hands/98/i12
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False information is appearing all over social media to take advantage of the widespread COVID-19 panic. Psychologically, we humans find solace when we feel a sense of control (even if it’s a false sense of control) over a panic situation. That’s why when we fear for the shortage of hand sanitizers, the idea of DIY alternatives is naturally appealing.
Let’s take a look at the popular DIY recipe that calls for approx. 90-99% isopropyl alcohol, and a remainder of aloe vera or glycerin. Isopropyl alcohol (more commonly, “rubbing alcohol”) has 68-72% ethanol content. To kill microbial pathogens such as viruses, 60-90% ethanol content is required, with 70% being the optimal concentration. The concentration of common household rubbing alcohol is designed with this optimal ethanol to water ratio in mind as the 30% water content is critical to support the penetration of the cell wall of the microbe in order for the ethanol to effectively destroy the proteins within and therefore killing the micro-organism. Though the addition of aloe vera or glycerin may play a crucial role in protecting your skin from severely drying out upon contact with the isopropyl alcohol, they unfortunately throw off the optimal ethanol to water balance and reduce the “sanitizing” effectiveness of the formula.
Let’s take a look next at the alcohol-free sanitizer recipes commonly found online or promoted by essential oil companies. They read something like this: Fill a glass bottle with 5 drops of lemon essential oil, 5 drops of tea tree essential oil, a tablespoon of aloe vera, 2 tablespoons of witch hazel, and top up with distilled water. Sorry to say this is many times more scary than the previous formula with alcohol. We already learned from Myth No. 2 that essential oils must be fully solubilized in aqueous solutions to avoid skin sensitization. Where is the solubiliser in this recipe? There is none. This recipe relies on the 10 drops of tea tree and lemon essential oils alone to kill the pathogens. Even if you add to it essential oils with the most powerful anti-microbial content (eucalyptus, lemongrass, peppermint etc.), for essential oils to have sufficient anti-microbial strength (matching that of isopropyl alcohol), the concentration would be much too high to be safely applied on human skin. Another issue is the lack of preservative in this hydrous solution (refer to Myth No. 4 to learn all about the importance of preservation). As ironic as it sounds, this sanitizer recipe is a breeding ground for bacteria.
At times like now when personal hygiene is more important than ever, these DIY recipes will only exacerbate the situation by providing a false sense of security. Furthermore, even the most legitimate hand sanitizers sold in stores are second to proper handwashing from a cleanliness perspective and definitely from a skin welfare perspective. Too often I see moms put sanitizer on their babies’ or toddlers’ hands when there are handwashing stations readily available nearby. Please remember that an infant’s skin is much more delicate than that of an adult and will greater suffer the damage from the drying ethanol in these products.
]]>This is going to blow your mind, are you ready? Just because it’s selling on the shelf of a beauty counter, IT DOESN’T MEAN THE PRODUCT IS SAFE. Our country’s healthcare regulator simply doesn’t enforce this level of oversight. And unless the end user knows to critically assess the product label, a spoiled product cannot necessarily be distinguished by an average consumer.
As a Certified Natural Skincare Formulator, when I review the labels on the back of skincare products (and even food products), if I see the word “Aqua” or the likes of any water-based ingredients like “Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice” (Aloe Vera Gel) or bug food such as “Honey” or “Milk”, my eyes will instinctively start skimming for the presence of preservatives*.
Here are a couple of natural or nature identical ingredients that can be found in common preservatives for “clean” skincare products:
Sometimes, there is a need for a mix of preservatives, for the follow reasons:
Given all of these factors, there's really no "one size fits all" holy grail preservative out there. It takes patience, knowledge and experience on the part of the formulator to find the perfect preservative system for each formulation. And because many of the harmful micro-organisms can't actually be seen by the naked eye, a Preservative Efficacy Test (PET) carried out in a laboratory setting is the only way to tell whether the chosen preservative system is actually effective at ensuring a safe formulation is created.
Though this is just the tip of the iceberg, now that you have this important knowledge, you are well on your way to distinguishing safe natural skincare!
*It is possible for water-based formulations to be safely produced without the use of preservatives. This method of "self-preservation" is achieved by using what is called "hurdle technology", a complex method relying on the cumulative strength of a multitude of techniques such as the use of heat during the production process to minimize the initial bug count and the addition of chelating agents to disrupt cell walls and isolate metal ions to inhibit the growth of the micro-organisms. That said, hurdle technology requires a high investment of time, money, experience, knowledge and effort on the part of the formulator and thus, only limited brands on the market can afford to undertake this technology effectively. The use of preservatives is a far more common and simple time-tested approach.
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Yes, I know November Blossom makes Our Promise on being 100% natural, then why am I calling out that natural isn’t necessarily safe? More and more often I see the words “natural”, “green”, “plant-based” sprinkled across marketing ads. And that’s exactly what they are - marketing. There is actually, to date, no legal definition for the term “natural” (though the EU is now working on this!).
As you’ve already learned from the first two myths we’ve busted, essential oils, though natural, can prove to be dangerous and toxic if used in inappropriate concentrations, or by inappropriate audience. Peppermint essential oil, for example, should never be applied to or put near children under three due to the strong menthol content (Tisserand Institute, 2018) that may cause neurological issues.
It is also important to recognize the converse, that synthetics aren’t necessarily bad - there I’ve said (written) it! A huge topic is the presence of synthically-derived preservatives in otherwise natural skincare products. So many products claim to be “preservatives-free” but contain hydrous (water-based) ingredients that will breed the growth of mold and bacteria over time. The presence of preservatives, in appropriate proportions, is actually much needed to curb these dangerous nasties from forming.
So what’s the moral of the story?
Look beyond the marketing claims and really challenge the safety and functional purpose of each ingredient in your skincare products.
At November Blossom, we are 100% transparent about the content and function of each ingredient in all of our products, because we strongly believe in the integrity of our products and will never insert unnecessary or harmful fillers in our formulations.
You may think you don’t have the knowledge to differentiate the good from the bad. Don’t worry, that’s what we’re here for! Keep following our blog and we’ll take you through the ABCs of how to read your skincare product labels like a pro!
]]>There’s no easier way to invoke a home spa experience than to draw a nice hot scented bath. Hey, a few drops can’t hurt, right? Didn’t we just go over the recommended concentration amounts in the first myth we busted? There’s no way a few drops of EO in a whole tub full of water will exceed the recommended concentration of 2.5% for adults!
Err...not exactly.
To bust this myth, let’s fall back to basic science - oil and water don’t mix. Essential oils are oils too, even if they are only used a few tiny drops at a time. Added neat to a tub full of water, they will transform into a thin shimmery film of oil that floats to the top. As you dip your skin into your bath, you are exposing it to near 100% concentrated EO. The effects are much more adverse if you have broken skin or wounds on your body.
So what is the safe way to draw a nice hot scented bath? As we learned, as long as the EOs are diluted in appropriate concentrations, they can be enjoyed safely. Solubilisers are the hero agents here that will enable water and oil to mix together. But we know that’s not a practical everyday ingredient every household has. So the other method we recommend is to dilute the EOs with other oils before adding them to your bath. These oils can be your typical avocado oil, sweet almond oil, olive oil etc. that are in a common household pantry. As a bonus, these oils are also nice emollients that will help moisturize and soften your skin! Just be careful when stepping in and out of the bath as the oils can make the tub surface quite slippery.
]]>It's only fitting to start our series off with the topic of essential oil safey - an often misguided or even muted topic for moms, mom-to-be's, and babies.
I often read and hear about moms who like to use products infused with essential oils on their babies' skin. Though they have the best of intentions, they are likely doing more harm than good for their babies' health.
Essential oils are as they are called, the essence of botanicals. They are a highly concentrated form of the plant both in their effectiveness and fragrance. Used rightly, they provide valuable therapeutic benefits; used wrongly or recklessly, however, they can be toxic. Needless to say, this is a vast field of study, so let me focus back on the myth we're busting today - on age appropriateness of essential oils application.
It should come as no surprise that a baby's skin is much thinner and more delicate than an adult's skin. Actually, a baby's skin does not mature until it is 3 months old (Hoeger & Enzmann 2002), and it is therefore more sensitive and permeable, thus being more susceptible to skin damage from topical applications. According to the Tisserand Institute, a school renowned in the study of essential oils, a pre-term infant's skin should never be exposed to essential oils and for babies up to 3 months, the recommended essential oil concentration in topical products is no more than 0.1% (that's less than one drop in every 30mL). Even adults are recommended to use products with no more than 2.5% concentration. Of course, as with all things, there are exceptions based on a person's health condition and the said essential oil's quality and constituent properties, but these are recommendations suitable for the general public.